The stage actor's face, and what a camera asks of it
There is a particular ease to photographing an actor who has spent real time on a stage. The instrument is already tuned. Francis Price came to the Main Street studio with exactly that — a classically trained presence that knows how to hold stillness without going dead behind the eyes, which is the whole quiet art of a good headshot.
Read MoreThere's a particular kind of session that arrives when an actor steps back into the room after time away. The face is the same. The man behind it isn't — and the work, if it's any good, has to hold both.
Brian Kolb came to the Main Street studio to mark exactly that: a return to acting after a break, and the new narrative that comes with it. The brief was not one look, but range — the proof a casting director needs that a man can be cast in more than a single drawer. So we built six, and we built them to argue with each other.
Read MoreSpent an afternoon at the Downtown studio with actor Elvis Winterbottom, in for a set of headshots built to carry across casting briefs. We talked a great deal between setups, and he turned out to be genuinely interesting company, the kind of sitter who makes the hours run away from you. We worked through a deliberate range of looks: a plain dark tee and mock neck for the stripped-back theatrical frames, a navy waffle knit, a tailored blazer over a soft blue shirt for the producer and executive read, and a weathered leather jacket for something with more grit. One man, several characters, which is exactly what a working actor needs the camera to hold.
Read MoreAndy Burnham, sworn in only today as the new Member of Parliament for Makerfield, confirmed he would stand. Wes Streeting, the one figure thought capable of mounting a challenge, set aside his own ambitions and offered his backing instead. The party has rallied. If no rival emerges when nominations open on 9 July, Burnham could enter Downing Street within weeks. For now he is not Prime Minister, but he has been practically crowned as one.
Read MoreI had the privilege this week of photographing Babs Olusanmokun in my London studio, and as I worked I found myself thinking, not for the first time, about how often I get to say that word — privilege — about the Black actors who find their way to my chair.
Read MoreThere is a particular quiet that settles over a portrait sitting when the subject is, by trade, a maker of sound. The performer who fills a room — who has stood in front of seventeen thousand people at the Coca-Cola Arena and held them — arrives in my studio and discovers that the only instrument I am asking him to play is his own stillness. Nick Pritchard understood this faster than most.
Read MoreThere's a moment, going back through the frames from a sitting, where you can feel the difference between a photograph that merely records a face and one that holds the room. It is rarely a question of the camera. Almost always it comes down to two things: how the light falls, and how the person in front of you was directed in the seconds before the shutter.
Read MoreThere is a particular satisfaction in taking down a body of work you have looked at for too long and replacing it with something better. I have just done exactly that. The headshot portfolio has been rebuilt from the ground up — newer sittings, harder edits, a great deal that didn't make the cut. What's left is, I think, the strongest the studio has put out.
Read MoreKiko Macan came to the Downtown Los Angeles studio this week for new headshots, and I was rather pleased he did. Kiko is one of those sitters who arrives with two careers in his pocket — actor and director — which makes the session a more interesting puzzle than usual. A headshot for an actor sells presence; a portrait for a director sells authority. We set out to do both.
Read MoreSome sitters arrive at the studio with a CV; Jacobo Fe Gismera arrived with a biography that reads like one of his own screenplays. A Spaniard in Los Angeles by way of UCLA, he was the youngest novelist in Spain to publish in the historical genre, putting out his peplum novel Perfectus Imperator at nineteen, the same age he began a modelling career that has since run to hundreds of publications across a dozen or more countries.
Read MoreThere is a particular awkwardness, and a particular pleasure, in photographing another photographer. They know exactly what you are doing. They have stood where you are standing, made the same small adjustments to a collar, watched the same flicker of self-consciousness cross a face and waited it out. You cannot hide the mechanics from them, and so you stop trying.
Read MoreMost of the best things that happen in this trade arrive sideways, by way of a handshake you weren't expecting. This was one of those.
I had been asked to speak at Samy's, here in Los Angeles, on the subject of Godox lighting — a perfectly cheerful evening of light shaping and the usual debates about modifiers, where two photographers can disagree for an hour and both be right. When it was over a gentleman came up, introduced himself, and put a card in my hand. Edward Goldstein. He mentioned, almost in passing, that he did some modelling.
Read MoreThere are sitters who arrive carrying their work in their face before they've said a word, and Carlo Mendez is one of them. He came into the Main Street studio on a bright Downtown morning, and within a few minutes it was clear this was a man entirely at ease in front of a lens — which, for a photographer, is both a gift and a quiet challenge. Ease can flatten a portrait if you let it. The task becomes finding the moment underneath the comfort.
Read MoreThere's a particular kind of luck in photographing someone you know completely. With Sasha I've now made more portraits than of any other subject I've ever worked with, and these latest frames from the LA studio are some of the ones I keep returning to. The cropped platinum hair, the stacked silver ear pieces, the Adidas track top with its three stripes — there's an austere, almost sculptural confidence to her here that the lighting was built to serve rather than soften.
Read MoreThese are recent Los Angeles actor headshots, photographed last week in my Downtown LA studio. Kadu is an imposing presence and a genuinely talented actor — the kind of subject who makes the room go a little quieter the moment he settles in front of the camera.
Read MoreA fine-art counterpoint — the Shakespearean turn.
In the afternoon of the same day, with the same team, we struck the grey and pulled velvet down behind her. The morning had been commercial — clean light, sculpted silhouettes, the architecture of fashion. The afternoon belonged to something else entirely. We had time and a model willing to play, so we made the work I most like to make: fine art, theatrical, painterly, indebted to the canvas before the camera.
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A new portfolio of images for the season ahead.
There is a particular discipline in photographing someone you know completely. The temptation is to soften — to default to the familiar. Sasha permits no such thing. She arrives at the studio in character, and the work becomes a negotiation between the woman I know and the woman the lens insists upon.
Read MoreBen Palacios came through the Downtown Los Angeles studio last week, as part of an ongoing refresh of the actor look book — a deliberate evolution of lighting, styling and approach intended to give clients the distinction casting directors are now demanding.
Read MoreThe news from Westminster this week confirms what many in the Labour movement have suspected for some time. Andy Burnham, Mayor of Greater Manchester, has been cleared by Labour's National Executive Committee to contest the Makerfield by-election — the seat vacated by Josh Simons — with a view to challenging Sir Keir Starmer for the leadership of the Labour Party.
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